DAY TRIPS
Potpourri of pleasures

By RAY SPECKMAN
Published Sunday, June 20, 2004

For a town of not quite 3,000 residents, Hermann abounds with a vitality that supports more than its share of pleasures for residents and visitors.

Of course, the three wineries draw the most attention. Hermannhof Winery downtown is on the banks of a creek that flows just a few yards away to the Missouri River. The former brewery sports a vine-covered dining and garden area where visitors can enjoy award-winning wines and where, for the first time in a long time, ice wine is bottled.

Stone Hill Winery, the state’s largest, sits atop a grassy hill surrounded by elegant hardwoods. The yard in front of the 150-year-old granddaddy of Missouri wineries is lined with grapes, row after row, yielding product for the traditional winemaking process. Next to the main building is a former stable, where visitors can enjoy fine dining and elegant wines and perhaps be fortunate enough to get a seat in one of the booths made from converted horse stalls.

Just north of town in a beautiful valley is the Adam Puchta winery. Now the hot winery in the area, it is undergoing a large expansion.

All of the wineries offer free tastings. It is hard to walk away without a bottle or two, or even a case or two, after the aromas and lingering tastes tease your palate.

All of Hermann’s wineries sport international medals. It is a wine taster’s Mecca.

There are a number of interesting restaurants in Hermann. Most serve German fare and standard American offerings. One of the most interesting is a hideaway called The Cottage. Just outside the city limits south and east of Hermann, it easily could go unnoticed. However, when a place is recommended by so many, we thought it worth seeking out.

Actually, it is more than a restaurant. The first building we came upon after taking a short drive up a gentle gravel entry to the parking lot was a converted garage. Inside that garage is "The Gallery," where work of local artists is showcased. Among the artists is Al Miller, the husband of Sidney Miller, one of the owners. The other owner is Connie Keith, a former nurse whose husband is a doctor.

"He loves to do carpenter work," she says, "and fix and restore things. He is a doctor who makes house calls. Thank goodness."

Barbara and I arrived about 11 a.m. to visit with the owners before lunch. We were the first customers of the day. We poked around the gallery, and best said, there are some interesting pieces there that defy description.

We walked about 10 steps up the driveway to the converted cottage, now a restaurant. The weather was warm and the sun high, and we opted for dining on the patio built into the side of a limestone bluff, green plants abounding on the rock ledges - a Garden of Eden look it had.

It was then, as we were perusing the menu and enjoying the singing of the birds in the trees, a floodgate of humanity opened. One after another, cars pulled into the parking lot and discharged their passengers. Most were locals - shoppers, professional people, law enforcement and city and county employees. The patio filled quickly and, being nosy, I looked into the dining room, which by noon also was packed.

The food was delicious. Lunch and dinner is served. When you go, save room for the sinful Grandma Katie’s Caramel Cake.

Another delight is the Red Barn Craft Shop. John Wilding has created order out of throwaway items in his combination frame and antique shop. If it isn’t in his organized piles of castaway mayhem, you probably don’t need it.

And then there is Montague’s. Louie and Michelle Montague migrated from Texas, bringing Louie’s grandfather’s penchant for barbecue. Barbecue in a German town where sauerkraut and spaetzle are daily fare? You bet, and people flock to dig in, wiping hands and faces with pleasure after every bite of the smoked brisket or pulled pork.

There are many other delights in this most unique and historic town. Web sites to check out include www.hermannmissouri.com, www.hermannhof.com, www.stonehillwinery.com, www.adampuchtawine.com, www.thetinrabbit.com, www.goodfoodfineart.com and www.montaguesbedandbreakfast.com.


Ray Speckman can be found ingesting delightful fare or at editor@tribmail.com.